1. Clear out the Console
Needed: Screwdriver
Turn the console over on its top. Unscrew the six screws holding the bottom and top halves of the console together.
Carefully turn the console right side up, catching whatever screws fall out of the holes. Set the six screws aside and do not lose them.
Lift the top off of the console; set aside.
Carefully detach the controller wires from the big circuit board. They should join with the board in white plastic clips.
At the front of the console bottom is a small rectangular board that controls the lamp, the start button, and the reset button. Leave this board alone for the time being, but disconnect it from the main board.
Examine the big circuit board and detach it from the base of the console using the screwdriver. I'm not sure how many screws attach the board to the base, but it's more than six. Discard it when you're done. Maybe retain the screws to replace any of the six you removed from the bottom of the case.
All you should have left inside the bottom of the console is the small board at the front, and the controller wires.
Removing the NES components from the case.
2. Make a Floor Plan
Needed: Building Blocks, Mini-PC, Super Glue, Gloves
With 98% of the innards of the NES removed, you should be able to see three areas of space divided by raised supports which seem to meet in a large central block.
It's time to figure out how to best house the mini-PC. I decided to take advantage of the raised areas and the airflow they offer, and so I used the building blocks to create a platform to support the mini-PC.
Use the blocks to create a similar platform to support yours. If you have your mini-PC on hand, set it where you'd like it, then build the platform you need. Try to avoid covering any air vents with the blocks if you can help it.
Once you're satisfied with the shape, size, and position of the platform, put on a pair of gloves, then carefully glue the blocks together, then glue them in place.
Let the pieces dry, and set your mini-PC on the platform. Consider stacking a few blocks and using them as "columns" to help keep the mini-PC in place if the console is tilted. Try to place the columns where they won't block airflow to the PC. Don't glue these in place yet; you may find you'll have to move them later.
An added benefit of using these bricks is that it permits airflow beneath the PC.
3. Wire Up the Console Lamp and Fan
Needed: Screwdriver, Wire Cutters/Strippers, USB Extension, Electrical Tape, Fan, USB Splitter Cable
Use the screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the small board that supports the console lamp and the power and reset buttons. Use your wire cutters to cut the blue plastic block off of the wires on the other end.
You should find that the white and orange wires can be wired to a USB extension to engage the console lamp. Test the connections to be sure. Use the electrical tape to help ensure good connection between each pair of wires, and protect each connection.
Next, remove the remaining wires from the board, and return the board to its original position.
Now wire up the fan. Snip the connector off of the end, strip the two wires, and join them to the wires of another USB extension. The fan should drop right into space to the left of the PC and over the vent. The fan will pull air in through the vent and blow it into the cavity.
Plug the completed lamp and fan cables into the USB Splitter cable. This will get plugged into a port on the back of the PC. Some creativity with USB right angle converters may be necessary.
A pair of wires from the front board are wired into a USB cable and inserted into a port on the PC.
4. Fit the Front USB Cables
Needed: Rotary Tool, USB Extension Cables
This part needs patience and finesse.
Take apart the front black bezel on the bottom half of the console. You should be able to pull the controller ports out through the front -- wires and all.
Those Oxsubor cables have a blocky part at the female ends that should fit nicely against the opening where the controller port was. You're going to have to use the rotary tool with a sanding drum to take off some of the plastic behind the blocky part to fit it through the opening.
Connect the cables to the ports on the front of the mini-PC. Have those right-angle converters handy. Refer to some of the photos for ideas.
The console's controllers were located here. On the left side, I fit two USB ports.
5. Set the Fingerbot
Needed: Fingerbot, Mini-PC
Follow the instructions to set up the bot and test it from your SmartPhone.
The goal here is to attach the bot to the PC so that, when triggered, the bot powers up the machine.
I found the best placement was from the side of the power button opposite the USB ports. I had originally positioned it above the power button, but then I realized I couldn't fasten the two halves of the console shell -- the position of the bot made the interior height too tall. But when positioned to the right, the bot is the same height as the PC.
NOTE: You may need to use your rotary tool to remove or sand down a "tower" that supported the NES' main board (see image) to ensure you have enough space for the fingerbot to fit.
SwitchBot bot is on the right side of the mini-PC. When activated, it presses the power button.
6. Set the HDMI Port
Needed: HDMI Extension Cable, Rotary Tool or File, Handheld Vacuum, HDMI Extension Cable
Remove the mini-PC from the enclosure.
Fire up your rotary tool, with a cutting disc attached, or use your file and carefully remove the plastic material between the audio and video port holes on the enclosure. Try to remove only enough to allow the HDMI extension cable (the female end) to fit.
Vacuum out all the dust and return the machine to the enclosure. Plug the right angle male end of the HDMI extension cable into the mini-PC.
I found I needed to build a small structure out of the building blocks to hold the plug in place. I'll likely reinforce it with "super" glue.
7. Set the Power Port
Needed: Power Extension Cable
This one's easy. Plug the male, right-angle end of the power extension cable into the PC. Feed the straight female end into the rounded aperture on the back of the console. Affix the plug into the aperture, so that when you plug the PC's power brick in, the plug won't move.
8. Set the USB Hub
Needed: USB Hub, USB-C Extension Cable
Same thing here: Plug the extension cable into the back of the PC, and plug the hub into it through either of the remaining holes in the back of the console.
Affix the hub to the back of the console using the double-sided adhesive pads, cut down to size.
9. Finishing Touches
Optional: NES Games, Duh!
Seems like an NES PC would be incomplete without the ability to play some games, no?
It's not on the parts list, but I did find a Bluetooth game pad on Amazon designed to mimic the appearance of an NES controller. Quite convincingly, I might add.
I also downloaded and installed the Jnes emulator, and downloaded ROMs for a few games I have.
After about a minute of configuring Jnes to work with the controller, I found myself on World 1-1 of Super Mario Bros. 3!
Another finishing touch was replacing the cartridge door with a new one. The text on the old door was faded. I found replacement doors on eBay. Replacing it required a small screwdriver, spray lubricant, and removal of the black piece adjacent to the door.
Screenshot of Super Mario 3 (TM). Trademark information at page bottom.